The 2013 Port Phillip Estate Shiraz is a single site wine produced from 0.53 hectares of estate vineyard.
The 2012 winter saw a return to cold and wet conditions with the wettest June in 20 years. Soils were at water holding capacity delaying budburst 10 days. Vine growth was balanced and flowering ensued well, delivering good crop levels. Despite sporadic rain, the summer was mainly dry with vigour kept in check and disease pressure low. Our continuing application of composts, organic teas and other organic practices have advanced the health and resilience of our vines. Vintage commenced at the beginning of March presenting excellent fruit. A period of very warm days and nights then rapidly ripened the remaining fruit causing vintage to be the most compact we have experienced requiring great efforts from both viticultural and winemaking teams.
The white wines are characterised by a solid core of white fruit, floral notes and their usual pithy powdery finish, while the red wines show depth and focus with excellent line and drive.
The fruit was fermented with indigenous yeasts and a small amount of whole bunch in open top concrete and wooden fermenters for 20 days. Malolactic fermentation is indigenous and the period of elévage was 16 months in old French oak barriques. This wine was bottled without fining or filtration
Deep red in colour. The nose is aromatically bright with a complex mix of black fruits, wet stone and charcuterie. The palate, with blackcurrant and black pepper flavours, is supple with a medium bodied weight, but is balanced with dense spicy tannins and a long sustained finish.
Smoky, spicy, reductive shiraz, won't be for everyone but the silken mid-palate and insistence of flavour and tannin through the finish will woo many. Light on its feet but surprisingly powerful.
Cold fried onion like reduction, hence the need for a decant to open the wine up. The palate is well constructed, silky medium bodies tannins and medium long with roasted meats dark savoury flavours.
This is, I think, a good example of what Mattinson calls an ‘Enthusiast’s Wine’.
Open last night very sullen, stinky and reductive, so I left it well alone. A day later and the perfume has come out, and the wine looks much better. Black fruit, char grilled meat heavy with cracked pepper, lavender perfume. Medium bodied, distinctly meaty and spicy, with well packed fine grained tannin, even acidity and a spray of herbs and more char grilled meat on the finish. It has fruit, but it’s pretty dry and confronting. Almost bitter amaro herb and smokiness in the aftertaste. Hard to rate, but will surely push the buttons of some.